Dunedin rallies around iD Fashion Week as one of its major annual events, and this year was no different with a diverse audience ranging from grandmothers to students, all eager to see fresh looks down the runway at the Dunedin Railway Station. A few seats remained unfilled on the Friday night, thanks to locals heading off to see Adele, but that didn’t detract from the excitement and anticipation of what was to come.
International guest judge and womenswear designer, Paulo Melim Andersson kicked off the show with a collection consisting of retrospective pieces (pictured above) spanning a design career spent working with Marni, Maison Martin Margiela, Marni, Chloe and Zadig & Voltaire. Floating prints, pretty gathered necklines, pussy bows and cut out detailing on the backs of knee-length feminine dresses featured, with the garments still holding timeless appeal.
Lela Jacobs (below left) and Ovna Ovich (below right) who have both previously shown at New Zealand Fashion Week also presented their AW17 collections to a Dunedin audience, with leather accessories range Yu Mei collaborating with new label, Florence.
And if you want to know what the future of fashion looks like it pays to keep your eyes on emerging designers. Otago Polytechnic students had their own category; one showing under the label LDD who sent models down the runway dragging thought-provoking placards behind them referencing cultural identity, poverty and race-relation issues in New Zealand.
One of the highlights of the night was Swanndri. It’s a Kiwi brand associated more with the wilderness rather than the runway, but designer Quentin Hart (former Tom Ford menswear designer) proved that style has been injected into this outdoor lifestyle range.
His first look was the signature red and black bush shirt worn, one assumes, by a local identity who marched boldly down the catwalk with a stick in hand donning gumboots as the Kiwi farming archetype, sending laughter around the audience. Oh, and did I mention All Blacks? *As a non-rugby fan I couldn’t work out why ‘half’ the audience was cheering when they came down the runway.
Largely menswear-based, Swanndri presented puffer vests, modern parkas in sophisticated navy and greys. An orange and black check shirt provided a new take on the signature Swanndri check, and even skinny jeans and a wool blazer with military style pockets will look just as good, if not better, on the town as it will in the country.
Each year a national guest designer is invited to show at the event and this time around Stolen Girlfriends Club rocked up a storm on the runway with a High Winter collection, ‘The Curse That Flew Right Past You,’ featuring covetable lush shearling jackets, printed T-shirts, ripped jeans, mini dresses and what designer Marc Moore refers to as Tranny boots. In true rock n’ roll style these ones were thigh high.
Thanks iD Dunedin Fashion Week for a truly fantastic show!